Les Ochs: Keeper of the Turquoise Sky

Les Ochs is a man embodying the charm of the American West, a passion for tradition, and a respect for authentic craftsmanship. Born in the Midwestern state of Indiana, he moved to Aspen, Colorado, in 1973 after college, just as John Denver was singing "Rocky Mountain High." Growing up among ranches and mountains, he breathed the Colorado air from an early age, where contact with nature and Native American cultures becomes a daily experience.

Navajo jewelry has always been a part of his life: unique objects, full of history and personality, capable of recounting ancient traditions. His encounter with Alessandro Squarzi came almost by chance, but it proved to be destined to last. It was Les's last day in Santa Fe, New Mexico, in August 2023, before returning to Colorado, when his artist friend Roseta Santiago put him in touch with Alessandro, an Italian interested in Navajo jewelry. What was supposed to be a brief half-hour meeting turned into five hours of conversation about life, horses, style, and Monument Valley. Alessandro's first taste of tequila sealed an immediate connection, built on friendship and shared passion. "Then there was dinner at the Santa Café, and there I also discovered Alessandro's watch collection. Shortly after, I was invited to do a trunk show at Fortela in Milan, on the occasion of his 59th birthday and the launch of his book. It was a success!" Les recalls enthusiastically.

The common thread linking Navajo jewelry to the Fortela style is a connection to vintage and a respect for roots. “It's the 'vintage' element that creates a bridge between ancient cultures and modern, tradition-based style, reminding us where we come from and the importance of learning from our elders,” explains Les. His personal collection reflects this philosophy: bracelets, turquoise necklaces, and belt buckles become almost a daily uniform, often paired with indigo denim. “In recent years, I've also discovered the world of watches, a true obsession after meeting Alessandro and his over 400 pieces.” How does a Navajo piece fit into the Fortela collections? “Alessandro's passion for the American West and vintage style is perfectly reflected in the contemporary style: quality, uniqueness, and craftsmanship. It's a natural meeting of two worlds that share the same values.” The contrast between Aspen and Milan is striking, and Les explains it this way: "In Colorado and the Southwest, turquoise has a sacred meaning, a symbol of protection, seen as 'a solid part of the sky,' revered for centuries by indigenous communities. In Italy, Native American style has only recently begun to influence clothing, jewelry, and fabrics. Here, attention to quality and beauty meets American tradition in a unique way. 'Form follows function': function guides form.

"How can we keep such an ancient tradition alive in the contemporary world?"
Supporting ancient traditions is a sign of respect. Many prefer the new and shiny, I choose the patina that comes from love and use. It tells stories. If it could talk…” Les smiles, but his admiration for Navajo history and folklore is evident in every piece he chooses and displays, like his Navajo silver bracelet, over 100 years old, built around a perforated and curved turquoise stone, likely part of an ancient necklace. He discovered it on eBay years ago and managed to purchase it after a long negotiation. Today, it is one of the most admired pieces in his collection, a symbol of his philosophy: every jewel tells a story, every imperfection testifies to the passing of time.

"What advice would I give to someone who wants to start collecting ethnic and artisanal jewelry?"
You're not just buying an object, you're also building a relationship with the person selling it. Look for reliable sources, buy what you love, what you would wear, or what has historical value. A good merchant wants to see you satisfied and happy with your purchase.” Today, Les looks to the future with enthusiasm: the handmade jewelry market continues to evolve, and his passion for historical pieces, from Navajo silver bracelets to Santo Domingo necklaces or Navajo Pearls, allows him to see each creation as a bridge between past and present, tradition and modern style, roots and freedom.